Now where was I?
Singapore Adventure Volume 5A
Now where was I? I loved how Jon Stewart started his reintroduction to TV with that line. So I am borrowing this well used phrase, inspired by him, seems a perfect place to start.
Matt and I continue to take happy advantage of our proximity whenever we can. A long weekend has the possibility of turning into adventure, relaxation and education…always learning and full of discovery. You don’t have to be in Southeast Asia either of course! I remember many a weekend, usually just a day actually, driving to South County RI and feeling as if we have gone far, far away. Change of scenery is like hitting a reset button.
KAMPOT, CAMBODIA
We recently returned from a long weekend trip to Kampot, Cambodia in search of pepper. Not the vegetable but the often overlooked, unexplored beauty that is resting in shakers and pepper mills all over the world. A few months back Matt found himself down the internet rabbit hole searching for spices. He stumbled upon a place in Cambodia known for its dedication to the cultivation of pepper called La Plantation. He ordered a few packs of pepper, opened them, and was blown away by the intense and distinct aromas each packet of pepper provided (ahh a 3 ‘p’ alliteration that time, let’s see how far I can go). The love affair did not stop at his nose, for when he ground them up and tasted each one, it became clear to him that all this time he most certainly had neglected a huge opportunity to elevate his culinary senses. He was hooked, a changed person, with a new found purpose predicated upon the profound potential of pepper. ( I think that will do it).
After some quick research we discovered that not only could we go and tour the farm, but we could stay there as well. Reservations were made, tickets were purchased, Visa’s in order, we took advantage of the long Chinese New Year weekend, and off we went.
Kampot, Cambodia is a region known for growing high quality pepper sold worldwide. The farm we went to visit is located about a 3 ½ hour drive southwest of Phnom Penh and about a 2 hour flight from Singapore. We were greeted at the airport by a driver that we hired in advance. If you ever find your way there, the car driving company we used is called Driver Cambodia, and they are just phenomenal people.
The drive to La Plantation was along a two lane road, winding through small districts often lined with vendors selling all kinds of things. Chickens, curiosities, beer, ducks, cactus pads and large carcasses of raw meat suspended from horizontal poles hung out in the intense heat. Cars shared the road with mopeds and Tuk Tuks; fantastic looking 3 wheeled open air vehicles. The countryside was flat with clay colored dirt visible through patches of grass occasionally being grazed upon by swing back skinny white cows, known as Brahmin I’ve been told. It was throat scathingly dry outside, evident even through the enclosed air conditioned comfort of our car. Phaekdey, our driver, told us that it had not rained in months, but the raining season would be upon them soon, hopefully he added. Matt and I watched a repeated landscape fill our vision in between stretches of nodding off. We reached our destination around mid-day after winding our way around a small body of water called Secret Lake and popping out from a bumpy dusty dirt road into a lush, bustling and welcoming farm.
We were there only two days but we managed to accomplish exactly what we came for; rest, discovery, food and pepper. Tours of the farm are conducted daily, free of charge by the way. A great way to get travelers to this off the beaten path farm, the wow factor then happens naturally. Additionally, travelers have the opportunity to enjoy a delicious lunch, shop in their charming store, and take a cooking class. We did all of that with the added bonus of staying at one of their 4 available overnight villas. The only thing we regret is not having more time.
Our cooking class consisted of a small mix of people from France and Switzerland; the instructor, was a super fun and energetic young woman from Cambodia. I could instantly tell she enjoyed what she was doing. Sharing stories of cooking with her mom, appreciating the diversity of her little group and lighting up when she described all the ingredients that would go into our dishes. We collectively made Khmer Fish Amok (steamed curry fish dish), Vegetable Curry and Mango Salad. We chopped, grated, diced and squeezed our way through the lesson. The squeezing came into play when we were making coconut milk. First, the fresh coconut is allowed to sit in water for awhile. The cream, as they say, rises to the top. That is removed and we suddenly had coconut cream! Then one person, Matt volunteered, squeezes the remaining coconut in the water for quite sometime. This extracts the ‘milk’ from the coconut. The setting was just as you might imagine, an open air wooden structure outside, small galley style kitchen with a few burners and tables for getting all the work done. Once we were finished we all sat down and feasted on our efforts. We started as 8 awkward individuals lacking the ability to communicate and ended around a table, laughing and eating in the special way that cooking together creates; language barriers broken down, food and all of its nourishing qualities finding its way around our awkwardness.
My most favorite pepper, which makes my mouth water just thinking about it, was this black fresh pepper that is packaged in salt. Fresh, means the pepper doesn’t crunch as hard when I bite into it, and the salt bit balanced so perfectly with the just-enough-spice from the black pepper. I was popping them in my mouth with the joy and vigor I usually reserve for chocolate covered… well.. anything.
Matt especially loved the long red pepper. It grows very differently; long and compact versus the hanging, almost grape like cluster of the traditional peppercorn. The aroma is very enticing as well. So different than what you would expect a peppercorn to be. It reminds Matt of his grandmother’s house when he was a kid. I love how scents bring us back to memories that are personal and so powerful. When cooked, it resembles the aroma of warming spices; cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, allspice with an added spiciness. It can add such a unique flavor to dishes. He can’t wait to start experimenting with it.
The villas were designed by Yvon Chalm and they are unique, rustic and yet modern at the same time. Resting at the base of a hillside, the smooth concrete pod like structures served as bedroom, bathroom open to the elements (loved this!) and a communal kitchen for dining and hanging out with fellow travelers. We vowed to return someday with food in tow and make delicious use of the communal kitchen and fantastic view. The nights were as dark as can be! Something we don’t see that often in our city view apartment (also love). Stars, sunsets, birds, flowers and a bottle of wine. An escape with all the trimmings.
The Cambodian people we met were just about the most genuinely friendly and welcoming people I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. Full of joy and beaming with hospitality. One of the main visions of this farm by owner Guy Porré and Nathalie Chaboche was to provide sustainable employment for the community, assist other pepper farmers in the region, protect the land by growing certified organic, and establishing educational schools for Cambodian children. All of which they have succeeded in accomplishing. They are tireless in their goals, ideas and energy. Up next, a Spice Bar crafting drinks from their extraordinary peppers. I’ve no doubt a return trip will have to be planned.
Oh and we met a fellow staying there with us named Patrick from Germany who told us about a mighty adventure he went on not that long ago. I thought I would share the website with you as I think some of you might actually be interested in checking it out. Essentially, he and a few friends signed up to be dropped on an uninhabited island with nothing but a backpack; no food or water (their choice). A true survivor experience or you can opt for the less sink or swim version. The operation is called Docastaway Survival Holidays. One more bit about Patrick (which after a reread is really about me). So he was traveling solo, a young man on a three week journey through Southeast Asia. We shared a dinner table with him at the Villa the first night, separate, pleasant conversation here and there. Then saw him the next day and chatted about life and experiences over breakfast, he was very friendly and was quite comfortable moving in and out of peoples lives. There was never a sense that he wanted to do anything together, not that he was standoffish, not at all. He enjoyed conversing but when he was done, he was done, and he enjoyed his own company just as much and probably didn’t want to overstep on me and Matt’s time. He didn’t make us ever feel unwelcome or uninteresting. I found myself very fixated with his lack of a seeking a further connection and at the same time admired by it. I guess what I am trying to express here is… I often feel like when I meet someone, even though I know it is a passing encounter, I don’t let it be that. I stretch it to a place that it doesn’t really ultimately belong. By exchanging numbers, or saying if you are ever in so and so, look us up. “Let’s keep in touch’ when you know you never will. When giving into the incredibly true fact that we meet people never to see them ever again, when reflected upon seems so final.. well, because it is final. And because of this fear, realization or sadness even, when I put the pressure of extending a connection that I know just simply will never happen, I’m realizing now, kind of ruins it. As I reminisce on those passing encounters that I have done this to, my mind goes first to the fact that I have not reconnected like I said I would instead of just enjoying that space we shared, for however fleeting it was, and just letting it be. Ha, and now Patrick will never know how he helped me get to this place, we all parted with a wave and a ‘Enjoy your life’s journeys’.
PERTH, AUSTRALIA
Many, many years ago I fell in music love with a folk band from Australia. Now, I think me and my friend Laura stumbled upon this group ourselves, but Matt remembers us all discovering them together. I can’t remember darn it, so we are at a stalemate I guess. Unless you want to weigh in Laura?!
It was at the 2001 Newport Folk Festival (thank you Google), back when they announced the performers before you purchased tickets. The Waifs is a band formed of two sisters, Donna and Vikki Simpson and their friend Josh Cunningham. I remember we were blown away from the very first song. Vikki played harmonica (my most favorite instrument that I keep telling myself I will practice every day, including today) and it filled me with joy from my toes to my head. The breath needed just alone! Anyway, after that day we tried to catch them as much as we could. It was so very fun, great memories and great music. They stopped touring in the US for many years and my connection to them slowly faded, replaced by work and the other necessities of life.
A few months ago my mouse pointer hovered over an email from them in my inbox. I clicked delete without opening it and carried on my morning ritual of removing the unwanted email deluge. I deleted something by mistake and so I went into the trash folder to retrieve it and my eye caught The Waifs email header. I clicked on it this time and saw they were touring again, only in Australia, and had a show in Perth, a 4 hour flight from here. I couldn’t wait to tell Matt when he got back from work. He was equally excited. We both agreed how nuts it would be to go for one night essentially, but also agreed it, why the heck not!
We boarded a late night Friday flight from Singapore and…… TO BE CONTINUED
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I thought it best to break this up into two posts in order to spare your time. It is already written, I will just post the remainder in time for Sunday morning breakfast. EST:).
Thank you for the opportunity to spend time with you!
Back in two shakes of a kangaroos tail!
Much love and admiration
Kristin Gennuso
Singapore Adventure Chronicles
Follow us on Instagram: @tunaonritz
I loved reading this, Kristin! You two are really having such wonderful adventures. I wonder if you might include links to the places you stay and eat? La Plantation sounds so dreamy, I’d love to click over to it. Michael taught me how much readers like that for my Substack. The first time I did it I messed up and sent everyone down a confusing rabbit hole, but then got the hang of it. Can’t wait to read about Perth! 🩷
You are such a sweetheart to take the time to send these! I went to Cambodia about 15 years ago and fell so in love with the country that I’ve dreamed of going back. La Plantation looks so dreamy!
On his Substack, Michael puts links in red. I just learned how to do that!
Miss you guys! 🩷